How to Sew a Dress

Polka Dot Dress

  

Dress Details :-

• Shape :- Trapezoid
• Length of the Dress :- Knee Length
• Neckline :- Closed Round Front Neckline, Back also Same Round Neckline with a Slit/Keyhole with a Button Closure
• Sleeveless
• Pockets on Both the sides
• Fabric :- Rayon Fabric - Plain Dark Brown 
• Pattern Used : Boatneck Pattern Sheet from the Book "Sew Many Dresses Sew Little Time"

Measurements Required :- Bust Size and Length

Supplies I Used:

• 2.73 Yards or 2.5 Meters - Rayon
• Fusible Interfacing
• One Fabric Button
• Thread
• Acrylic Paint - Pale Tint Shade for the Polka Dots (Optional)

Steps to Follow :-

1. Trace and Draft the Pattern
2. Finish Neckline
3. Attach Pockets
4. Join Shoulder line
5. Finish Armhole line
6. Sew Side Seams with Pockets
7. Finish Hem Line

Pattern Pieces :-

• Boatneck Template (Same for both Front and Back) -  from the Book "Sew Many Dresses Sew Little Time"- Pattern Sheet 3 Front - Size 5 I used (Pattern Includes the Seam Allowance)

• Pockets Template - I made it from one of my dresses

• Facing and Interfacing - Same Boat Neck Template Used

Instructions :-

1. Trace the Pattern from the Pattern Sheet and Cut it Out

Boat Neck Template

Tracing the Pattern

2. Lay the Pattern on the Fabric on Fold -  Width wise Folded Fabric

3. Mark the Length on the Folded Side (Don't Forget to add Seam Allowance to the Length - I took 1.5'')

4. Then Mark the Length of the Dress on the side seam, From Armhole End to the Width End of the Fabric at Hem for Trapezoid Shape

5. Cut 2 Pcs Front and Back

6. Use Same Boat Neck Pattern for Interfacing and Iron it on the Fabric and make Facings for the necklines (You can use any method for Finishing the Necklines - Bias Tape Binding or Just Use the Facings without the Interfacings)

7. Cut 4 Pcs of Pocket template on the Fabric

Painted the Polka Dots on Both the Front and Back Pieces

Sewing Instructions :-

1. Sew the Front and Back Facings to its Neckline

Lay and Iron the Interfacings on the Fabric and Cut

Interfacings with the Facings

With right sides together Sew the Facing to the Neckline of the Front Piece of the Dress 
Clip the Seam Allowance, Under stitch it and Turn the Facing to the wrong side of the Dress

Do the Same for the Back Piece of the Dress - Add the Button Loop while Sewing the Back Neckline

Back Neckline - Red Markings is the Stitch Guide, Green is the Button Loop - Insert it while Stitching the Back Neckline

Blue Markings is to Cut the Fabric after Sewing - Do Not Cut Close to the V Stitch Point

2. Stitch the Loop for the Button while sewing the Slit Gap on Back Neckline

How to Sew Facing -
From the Book "Gertie Sews Jiffy Dresses"

3. Sew the Front and Back Pieces right sides together at Shoulder

4. Sew the Armhole with Bias Tape Binding

How to Sew Bias Facing to Armhole area -
From the Book "Gertie Sews Jiffy Dresses"

5. Sew the Pockets - Pockets Comes on the Hip area - It was 16" down From Shoulder where my dress's Pocket Opening Started 

6. Sew the Side Seams

7. Finish the Hem With Double Folded Hem

8. Sew the Button

I have given two links on How to Sew the Pockets and the Side Seams with the Pockets:-

Video by Gertie in YouTube, Find the link below :-

Make a Vintage Inspired Circle Skirt!

Video by Kim Dave in YouTube, Find the link below :-

How To Sew Panelled Circe Maxi Skirt With Pockets | Kim Dave

Finished Front Neckline and Armholes on the Wrong Side

Finished Back Neckline and Armholes on the Wrong Side

Finished Pocket on the Wrong Side

Finished Front Neckline and Armholes on the Right Side

Finished Back Neckline and Armholes on the Right Side

Finished Pocket on the Right Side

Finished Polka Dot Dress

Notes :-

• You can Choose any Neck Pattern to make this simple dress. I chose Boat neck to keep the same neck pattern on the front and the back side.

• Fabric is Cut in a Straight Grain - You can cut the dress pattern on a Bias Grain for more flare around the hem area - But the width of the Fabric should be Long - Eg. The fabric which I Used had a Width of 40 Inches. My required Length was 42" Approx. Plus the Length started from 8''on the bias while placing the Pattern so 50'' Width was needed.

I have Put a YouTube Link of the dress pattern cut in a Bias Grain by a Youtuber, Find the Link Below:-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_iTxphvdqI8&list=WL&index=20

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Book Review : Sew Many Dresses Sew Little Time : The Ultimate Dressmaking Guide By Tanya Whelan

Sew Many Dresses Sew Little Time : The Ultimate Dressmaking Guide

By Tanya Whelan

Sew Many Dresses Sew Little Time : The Ultimate Dressmaking Guide Book is not a book for beginners. As it a Mix and Match Pattern Book, the book is divided into sections of Bodices, Necklines, Sleeves and Skirts. So the instructions to sew a complete dress will be in different parts of the book.

Contents

Size Chart

The Book has 3 Pattern Sheets Printed on both sides.

Pattern sheets includes Patterns of Bodices, Skirts, Sleeves, Necklines, A Button Extension and A Button Placement.

Bodices:

Basic Bodice

Strapless Bodice

Halter Neck Bodice

Princess Bodice

Cowl Neck with Bodice

Mock Wrap Bodice

Skirts:

Straight Skirt

Six Panel Skirt

Bias Skirt

Sleeves:

Cap, Short, Three - Quarter, Long

Necklines:

Boat Neck

Scoop Neck

Deep V Neck

Cowl Neck with Bodice

High V Neck

Collar, Collar Band

Pattern Sheets

Neck Pattern Piece Sample

Sleeve Pattern

Good Points:

• Variety of Patterns to Mix and Match - 10 Bodices, 8 Skirts, 9 Neck Patterns with more variations like Simple Yoke Variation Dress, Blue Skies Dress with gathers below shoulder, Modern Apron Dress, Mint Dreams Dress, A line Wrap Dress. 
• Dart Modifications are explained in detail with lots of examples – Shifting of darts, Gathered Darts ….
• Sleeve Modifications include – Bell Sleeves, Split Bell Sleeves, All in One Cap Sleeves, Kimono Sleeves, Puffed Sleeves.
• Boning is used in the Strapless and Halter Dresses.
• The skirt patterns like A-line, Pleated, Circular and Wrap skirt, we have to create with the instructions given in the book and there is an instruction for Standalone Skirt too.

Modern Apron Dress

Dart Modifications Sample

Bad Points:

• The Pattern Sheets are not organized and Some of the patterns are overlapped –

Patterns are printed on both sides of the Pattern Sheet, Some patterns are overlapped above the other patterns so much that the lines are not clear and pattern markings for the bigger sizes looks fade-out.

Bias Skirt Pattern Piece could be a bit confusing to use for some people as to which piece connects where.

Bias Skirt Pattern Piece

• There is no detail mentioned in this book on how to alter the patterns if your bust and waist sizes fall on different sizes of the size chart.

To increase the cup size from B Cup Size to a bigger size is given but to alter the waist line in the pattern is not given.

The instruction says pick size for the patterns in the book close to the waist measurements but

if I choose as per my waist size - my bust size in the pattern becomes bigger so 

if I choose the pattern as per my bust size - how to increase the waist line is not mentioned in the book.

• Sewing Instructions are not clear for the Patterns, you have to flip through a lot of different pages.

Pattern Instructions are also not clear in Few Patterns.

Like the Mint Dreams Dress Pattern:

The Steps to refer for this dress are in different pages of the book and these instructions are only for the front bodice there is no mention of back bodice pattern.

Refer “The all in one cap sleeve” where the instructions to alter for front and back bodices are same but without the gathers” as back bodice pattern does not require gathers, use this detail for the Mint dress Back Bodice.

Mint Dreams Dress

• No Importance is given to the Back Neck or the Back Side of the Dress.

The Pattern Pieces have finished Back Neckline levelled to the Shoulder.

None of the pictures in the book shows how the dress looks from the back side, which would have been useful for the back side look of Halter neck dresses, One shoulder dress and Strapless Dress.

Overall it is a lovely book, the book is good for people who know how to alter the patterns, it is not for beginners. This is one of the best Mix and Match Pattern Book.

The best thing in this book are the Dart Modifications and the Gathered Patterns, it shows the minute details can change the look of the dress. The Skirt Patterns are very good. The Six Panel Skirt is a lovely pattern. The best ones of the Bodice Patterns are The Halter Neck with its two variations, The Cowl Neck pattern, Off-The Shoulder pattern and The Button Down Dress.

Basic Bodice, One Shoulder Bodice, Strapless Bodice, Strapless Sweet Heart Neck Variation
Princess Bodice, Off-The Shoulder Bodice, Halter Neck,  Halter Neck Variation
Halter Neck 2nd Variation, Cowl Neck Bodice, Mock Wrap Bodice, Dirndl Skirt

Box Pleated Skirt, Straight Skirt, Six Panel Skirt, Bias Skirt
Wrap Dress, Halter Neck With Circular Skirt, Boat Neck, Scoop Neck
Mandarin Collar, High V Neck, Deep V Neck, Cap Sleeve
Full Sleeve, Three-Quarter Sleeve, Short Sleeve, Pleated Skirt

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Book Rating : ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐